Saturday, September 11, 2010

Marching Powder by Rusty Young (3.5 stars)

This book is a fascinating insight into life inside San Pedro prison in La Paz, Bolivia; easily one of the strangest prisons in the world.  Money is essential to survive inside the prison.  Inmates are expected to buy their own cells from prison real estate agents, women and children live with their imprisoned husbands/fathers, and laboratories inside prison cells are the source of a large proportion of the cocaine manufactured in Bolivia.

The story follows the life of a British drug smuggler Thomas McFadden, who became famous for running prison tours inside San Pedro (he was even listed in Lonely Planet).  The author, Rusty Young, met McFadden on one of these tours, and set out to write his story of drugs, bribery, and violence.

Strangely the story is told in the first person, which I thought was a little weird when the author was writing about someone else's experiences.  The story also portrays McFadden in a very positive light, he comes across as an all-round nice guy, and is always in the right in every conflict.  I think Rusty may have been a little naieve in his approach, but Thomas was obviously a charismatic guy.

Rusty's account of Thomas' smuggling techniques was very interesting, and quite ingenious: would-be drug smugglers should take note :)
After the first layer of plastic cling wrapping, I added a thick coating of chilli powder.  Chilli has a powerful smell that throws the dogs off the scent.
Thomas has some fantastic stories: having a cocaine party with the governor of the prison in his cell, and seeing a rapist being beaten to death by his fellow inmates.

I tried to find out if prison tours are still available since we're heading to La Paz soon.  I couldn't get a definitive answer - it all seems to depend on knowing someone inside. 

Apparently the exposure of corruption in this book caused quite the controversy when it was published.  It will be interesting to see what happens when the movie is released, it is supposed to be out this year.

3.5 stars.

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